Brochure & Booklet Printing

Working out spine width for a perfect-bound book: paper bulk, page count and setting up the cover file

A few millimetres that can spoil a cover

A perfect-bound book's cover is a single flat sheet wrapped around a block of pages. Back cover, spine, front cover. Designers usually spend days on the front, and then give the spine a few minutes, which is odd given that a wrong spine width is one of the most visible mistakes in book production. If your title is 2 mm off centre on a 10 mm spine, anyone looking at a shelf can see it. If the block ends up thicker than the cover allows, the fold lines slide onto the back cover, and every book in the run looks wrong.

The spine width for a perfect-bound book is not a design choice. It comes from the paper and the page count. This guide explains how to calculate it, why two papers of the same gsm can give different results, how to build the cover file, and how to stay in step with the printer when the page count changes late.

The basic calculation

The spine must cover the thickness of the text block, plus a small allowance. A printed sheet of paper (a leaf) has two pages, so the block thickness comes from the number of leaves multiplied by the thickness of a single leaf.

Spine width = (pages / 2) x sheet thickness in mm, plus any allowance

If you only know the gsm, you can estimate the thickness using the paper's bulk, which is often given by the mill as cm3 per gram.

Sheet thickness in mm = (gsm x bulk) / 1000

Take a 240-page book on 90 gsm uncoated paper with a bulk of 1.3:

  • Thickness per leaf = (90 x 1.3) / 1000 = 0.117 mm
  • Number of leaves = 240 / 2 = 120
  • Block thickness = 120 x 0.117 = 14.04 mm

That gives a starting figure of about 14 mm before allowances. Printers may add a small amount for the glue and the cover's own thickness. Some use published tables or a sample block on their own machine, which is why the printer's figure can differ from yours by a fraction of a millimetre, and you should use theirs.

For more on the terms, our article on paper weight, caliper and bulk explains how these measurements relate to one another.

Why the same gsm gives different spines

Paper weight tells you how much material is in a sheet, and nothing about its thickness. Two 90 gsm papers can bulk quite differently.

Paper typeTypical bulk behaviourEffect on spine
Gloss or silk coatedDense, low bulk, often around 0.8 to 1.0Thinner spine for the same page count
Standard uncoated offsetMiddling, often about 1.2 to 1.3Moderate spine
Book wove or high-bulk novel paperLight and airy, often 1.6 to 2.0 or moreThick spine at a low weight
Recycled uncoatedVaries with mill and gradeCheck a sample and data sheet

These ranges are general guidance. Use the mill's data sheet for the exact grade, because the real figure varies by manufacturer and sometimes from batch to batch. If your printer swaps to an equivalent stock because of availability, ask them to confirm the spine again. A stock substitution of "the same weight" can change the spine by more than a millimetre or two on a thick book.

This also means you can choose bulk on purpose. A publisher with a slim book may choose a high-bulk paper to give it more presence on the shelf. Someone posting a heavy manual may choose a dense paper to keep the block thin, although a dense coated sheet can weigh more.

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Other things that change the spine

  • Ink coverage. Heavy photographic work adds little on a single page, though across many pages it can be measurable on some stocks, especially where the ink and moisture cause sheets to cockle slightly.
  • Binding type. PUR and EVA glue layers are thin but real. Our comparison of PUR and EVA for perfect binding covers how the choice affects durability.
  • Section sewing. A sewn book adds thread at the fold, so the spine usually needs a larger allowance.
  • Inserts. A plate section on a heavier stock, or a pull-out map, must be counted separately. Calculate each paper's contribution and add them up.
  • Environment. Paper picks up moisture. Stock that has been stored in humid conditions may be measurably thicker.

Building the cover file

Once you have a spine width from the printer, build the cover as one flat document. Back cover on the left, spine in the middle, front cover on the right, as if the book were open and face down.

The total width of the cover works out like this:

Back width + spine + front width + 2 x bleed

For a 148 x 210 mm (A5) book with a 14 mm spine and 3 mm bleed, the document would be 148 + 14 + 148 + 6 = 316 mm wide and 216 mm tall. It helps to use guides for each fold and to keep them on a non-printing layer. Your printer may supply a template and it is better to work with that where you can.

Rules for the spine itself

  • Keep text well clear of the fold. Binding tolerance means the fold may move by a millimetre or more, so leave at least 1 to 2 mm of clear space on each side of spine text.
  • Do not print on very thin spines. As a rule of thumb, a spine under about 3 or 4 mm is too small to carry a title safely. Ask your printer for their limit.
  • Choose a reading direction. In English-language publishing, spine text usually reads top to bottom, so the title reads upright when the book lies face up. Parts of continental Europe use the opposite direction.
  • Avoid hard edges at the fold. A contrasting colour block that stops exactly at the spine edge will show even a slight shift. Run the colour across the fold, or let the design disguise it.
  • Check the scores. Perfect-bound covers usually have hinge scores on the front and back, a few millimetres in from the spine. Keep important details and text out of that area.

If you are laminating the cover, check the guidance in lamination and coatings. Grain direction also matters. It should run parallel to the spine on both text and cover, or the book will not open well and may refuse to lie flat.

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Dummies and late changes

For a costly run, ask for a bound dummy on the actual stock, even if blank. Measure the spine with calipers. It is the most reliable check available, and it also tells you how the book feels, how it opens and how heavy it is. A dummy is especially worthwhile if the job uses a new paper, a high page count or a mix of stocks.

Late page changes are the usual cause of last-minute cover trouble. Add a 16-page section and the block gets thicker, which means the cover needs to change. Our advice is simple:

  1. Finalise the page count before finalising the cover.
  2. Build the cover so that the spine can be resized easily, using layers or a master that shifts elements as one.
  3. Reconfirm the spine in writing with the printer when the file is released, quoting the exact page count and paper.
  4. Check the proof with the spine measured against the book block, or a dummy if you have one.

A quick worked comparison

Here is how the same 320-page book changes across papers. On a 115 gsm silk with a bulk of about 0.9, the block is around 16.6 mm. On a 90 gsm uncoated with a bulk of 1.3, it is about 18.7 mm. On a 70 gsm book wove with a bulk of 1.8, it is about 20.2 mm. Same page count, and more than 3 mm of difference, with a very different weight in the hand. These figures are worked examples, and your final number should come from the actual stock.

Getting a spine right with us

If you are printing a perfect-bound book, tell us the page count, trim size, paper and print process, and we will give you a spine width to design to. We can advise on paper choices that will suit your page count and budget, and supply a cover template built for the job.

Have a look at our booklet and book printing page, or get in touch with your specification. If your page count is still moving, we can talk through which decisions can wait and which cannot before your cover file is finished.